Alohou Papa stands in the middle
of the bustling market in Togoville and blows hard on a bright red
whistle to catch everyone’s attention.
“It’s 9 o’clock. The
village chief is sending me to announce that bartering can now start,”
he cries. “No arguing and no provocation,” he tells traders and buyers.
Saturday on the northern shore of Lake Togo, some 65km east of the capital, Lome, Togoville runs a lively traditional
No money changes hands at the small public square,
where traders, fisherfolk and farmers from surrounding villages flock to
trade their produce.
At “Togossime” – “Togo market” in the local
Ewe language – all sorts of goods are swapped but grains, chickens,
fish and other seafood are the most popular.
“Togoville is a
traditional village,” explains Simon Tovor, special advisor to local
chief King Mlapa VI, who is head of the district and whose palace looks
down on the dusty streets.
“In days gone by, our parents lived off the land and sea. They swapped produce and everyone got along well,” he told AFP.
thought it best to keep this practice so we didn’t lose this record of
our grandparents and to show to our children how our parents lived.”
Stuck in time
many respects, Togoville – Togo’s former capital which gave its name
to the country – seems stuck in time, living according to the rhythm of
the lake and the fishing season.
It was here in 1884 that king
Mlapa III of Togoville signed a treaty to become a German protectorate,
well before Togo became a French colony.
Even today, it’s easier
to get to Togoville by wooden canoe across the lake than by using the
potholed road from Lome that skirts the water’s edge.
which is home to some 10 000 people, is well known as a centre for
voodoo, attracting devotees to study and practise the religion.
statues and shrines are everywhere. The Virgin Mary is also said to
have been seen walking on the lake in the 1970s, spurring pope John Paul
II to visit in 1985.
At the market, most business is conducted in
the open in the oppressive heat. A few dilapidated wooden structures
with rusting corrugated roofs are used as shade.
Others spread out
their wares on the parched brown earth. Women in colourful wrappers
pick their way expertly through the crowds, balancing large bowls of
produce on their heads.
Atsupi Fiodjio has been coming to the
market from a nearby village for more than 25 years and sits on a brick
selling smoked fish.
“I come every Saturday with two or three big
baskets of smoked fish and I go home at the end of the day with at least
three sacks of maize, beans and black-eyed peas,” she said.
resell them in our market where grains sell really quickly because our
people mainly fish. We don’t grow anything,” she added, as a dozen
customers looked on.
Sitting on the ground in front of her nearby stall, Jeannette Tenge lets everyone in earshot know about the quality of her fish.
only accept grains, especially corn and rice, and of course flour and
cassava. Doing this gets me my stocks for the house for the whole week
for my family,” she added.
“On other days I sell bread in the village school,” she added, complaining about the lack of shade from the harsh sun.
Poverty and necessity
barter market is one of only a few surviving in the country but it
isn’t just about respecting traditions. It also endures out of
About half of Togo’s nearly eight million people live
below the poverty line and often complain about increases in the price
of foodstuffs. Some don’t always have enough to pay in cash.
left the house with some corn and garri (powdery or ground foodstuffs
to come and swap with some fish to prepare at home,” said Adole, a
“I don’t often come to the market. I come when I’m a bit hungry.”
Enyoname said she barters poultry for corn and garri. “I have to do it because I find it difficult to sell,” she explains.
king’s advisor, Simon Tovor, said bartering also has a practical
application, allowing goods to be used more quickly than by selling.
in the countryside use this shortcut rather than try to sell their
produce with all the risks… (involved in keeping it fresh,” he added.